Arena negra, bares de playa y el volcán al otro lado del agua.

A polished Mediterranean restaurant in Kamari, the black-sand resort over the headland from Perissa, done in bright whitewashed Cycladic style with a plant-filled courtyard and airy dining room. Chef Chris Koskinas gives traditional Greek recipes a modern turn with a focus on fresh, seasonal produce and bread baked daily in-house, paired with local Santorini wines.

A small, well-loved Greek restaurant in the middle of Fira, a short drive up from Perissa. Behind a blue-and-white Cycladic facade the kitchen keeps it traditional — grilled meats, souvlaki and Greek classics — at friendlier prices than the caldera-edge tables nearby.

One of Santorini's most loved tavernas, tucked into the inland village of Exo Gonia — a short drive up from Perissa — with a rustic stone dining room and a terrace looking out over the plain to the sea. The kitchen does Greek and Cretan cooking with real care, from slow-cooked meats to fresh seafood pasta, and it books out well ahead in high season for good reason.

A well-regarded fish restaurant tucked away on the marina at Vlychada, on the island's quieter south coast a short drive from Perissa. The kitchen works with the day's catch and Santorinian produce — fresh fish, seafood and creative meze — served on a plant-shaded terrace by the boats, away from the beach-bar crowds.

A creative modern-Greek restaurant in Oia, set on a blue-chaired terrace with embroidered cloths and a sea view away from the caldera crowds. The kitchen plates careful, contemporary takes on Greek and Cycladic cooking — think beef carpaccio and inventive salads — paired with a strong Santorini wine list, for when you want Oia dining without the sunset-strip prices.